Deer & Doe – Hoya blouse

This blouse is a mock-wrap straight blouse with lapels and lined front. Version A has short sleeves, version B has ¾ sleeves and sleeve tabs. I made version A with short sleeves.

The size range is 34 to 46 (printed) – 34 to 52 (PDF),  but the sizes are quite small, and quite narrow in the hip.  I used size 50, shortened to petite, with an FBA and added width to the back.  I made some major changes to allow for my height (petite) and body shape (plus).

Overall, the pattern wasn’t too difficult, but there are inconsistencies. There are no instructions to stay stitch the neck edge before applying the neck binding, the sleeve heads need a line of ease stitching to be done prior to setting in the sleeve, and of course like a lot of PDF’s, the pattern tends to assume you understand about things like finishing edges, clipping curves etc.  I like the aesthetic of the front edges. It presents a fairly tailored appearance. I did not like the “double layer” front. I altered the front to use a facing on the neck edges. With a much lighter fabric I can see it would work fine, although I would worry that the front would drag the back forward. A rayon woven from my stash.

Because I am short, and plus sized I had to make a number of changes to the design, to work with my body shape. I made the following changes:
1.   I shortened the pattern at the “shorten here” line, folding up by 2cm, to keep the hemline at the hip line.  I think I might pull this back to 1cm in future tops.
2.   I added a 1.5in FBA, resulting in a “honking great dart”, but it gives the depth I need.
3.   After an initial fitting, I realised that in addition to needing more width on the front, I needed it across the back hip (but the shoulders/neck/sleeves were fine). I cut across the upper back creating a yoke, and then cut another back piece, adding about 2in of width. I took up that width as a box pleat, before attaching onto the yoke, and then top stitching.
4.   Rather than a double front, I used the pattern piece, and created a facing on the front edges.

Overall I like this top, and I may sew it again, perhaps as other reviewers have said, with some added shaping at the sides. I can also see myself using the front features, as part of a shirt dress.  Its a lovey design, and I will wear it I am sure, but it did take an awful lot of alteration to fit me.

Deer & Doe - Hoya Deer & Doe - Hoya

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